How can textiles be “organic”? What does “organic” mean with regards to textiles? How can the consumer
determine organic garments are genuinely “organic”?
Organic textiles can be made from cotton, wool and even bamboo or hemp. In order to achieve organic
certification, the fibre must be of certified organic origin. Simply put, a cotton or bamboo
operation has to have been managed in accordance with the organic standards (no prohibited
chemicals used) for more than 3 years. Wool must come from certified organic sheep (no prohibited
chemicals used on the land for more than 3 years and the animal also raised in accordance with the standards).
Spinning, yarning, dyeing and garmenting are also required to be certified organic if the final
product (e.g. t-shirt, socks etc) is to wear a “certified organic” label. Apart from the issue
of needing a certified organic factory in order to maintain the certified status, generally, the
most challenging part to gaining certification is the dyeing process. What would you, as a consumer,
expect with regards to dye materials used in organic textiles? Plant derived natural dyes? A dye that
is made from 100% plants, in fact, may not be realistic. 100% plant-extracted handcrafted dye colours
could be used locally in small quantities, but such products may not be sold at a highly commercial
level because of issues with obtaining the quantity required and also quality (not always being stable).
Dyes are assessed on a case by case basis to ensure that the dye is not toxic to the environment or to
humans (i.e. not a known allergy source etc).
If the garments are imported from overseas and already carry a widely known organic certification in another
country, ACO assesses the international organic requirements and confirms whether it is up to standard
with our own.
ACO offers textile certification under the
Australian
Certified Organic Standard
Australian Certified Organic Standard
Textile processing requirements are listed at section 6.7 of the ACO Standard, and includes specific requirements
for wool and cotton products.
If the garments are imported from overseas and already carry a widely known organic certification in another
country, ACO assesses the international organic requirements and confirms whether it is up to standard with our own.
You may not have seen “certified organic” garments very often, but have seen many garments claiming, to be “made
with organic cotton/wool”. This is because, as mentioned earlier, achieving organic certification for garments
can be challenging and sometimes become a time consuming and costly process. How do you know if products that
claim, “made with organic cotton/wool”, really source “certified organic” cotton or wool? That is why ACO established
a verification program called “made with certified organic fibre”. This is a verification program whereby ACO
can confirm the claim “made with…” is genuine by reviewing the stage processes of the production flow chart and
traceability documents.
ACO believes this verification program could also help some operators as the first step to producing fully
“certified organic” garments in the future. The verification program guarantees the products’ traceability
system and confirms the products’ claim (“made with organic cotton/wool”) is genuine.